Last days in Ecuador, slab climbing and broken taxis.

The few days before I left Ecuador were pretty relaxed. The day after I went on the night climb, I pretty much slept all day with a few episodes of entourage in between naps. Around 5pm, a bunch of climbers showed up from Quito. I didn’t really talk to them much as I was feeling fatigued and speaking Spanish when I’m tired isn’t easy to do. The next morning I woke to the sounds of breakfast. It was 700 am and everyone was up. I was now sleeping in a little nook downstairs because Juan had his Daughter staying with him and she got my room… damnit... After saying “Buenos Dias” (Good Morning) to everyone, I quickly made some bread, eggs and fruit and got my gear together for the day. Today was my last full day in Ecuador, My last day in Cojitambo. On the one hand, I’m super happy to leave, see my long lost girl and to Climb at some new crags, some new countries… On the other hand, when I leave a climbing place, I always have the feeling like I should have done more; I should have sent those projects. I guess there will always be that feeling because there will always be something that I can’t send. Always.
During breakfast I started a conversation with a guy named Sebastian. He is Juan’s cousin, his English is really good, and after talking to him for a while he mentioned he lived in Kamloops for a year going to Thompson Rivers University’s ACMG guiding course. He knew Squamish, Skaha, and he said he had heard a ton about nelson but didn’t go and totally regretted it. Small world… I learned that the group that was here from Quito with him was more or less weekend warriors and today most of them would be climbing muiltpitch for the first time.
After zipping up the dirt road to the base of Cojitambos walls, we unloaded and the 8 of us walked up the steep path. It was sunny, hot, and with the recent rains, the mosquitoes were out. Hate those little fuckers. I don’t take malaria pills and I don’t have a yellow fever shot so whenever I’m around mosquitoes I’m always a little bit wary even though I’m told at this elevation there’s nothing to be worried about. At the base of an easy 2 pitch climb, Sebastian did a short demonstration of how to climb a multipitch. I was really listening. I was staring out at the brown patches of earth, the blue sky and the peaks know as “Diente de perro”. I was lost in the moment, thinking about where I was, where I used to be and where I was going. 2010 has been a great year.
I lead the first pitch, belayed a beginner up to the first anchor and we waited while 2 more beginners climbed up to meet us. I stayed at the station to make sure they knew what they were doing and then continued to the top. Something I realized this day? Defiantly like climbing a lot more than guiding. Is that selfish? Once we were all at the top we talked about safe rappels, and made our way down. Once again on the ground, my partner, and apparently new best friends as I was told decided to go try a slab that I had been eyeing up for the whole month. At the base, looking up at the single pitch climb, I figured 5.10a, maybe 10b. I started and quickly realized I had underestimated it. We’re talking 1pad of 1 index finger to pull you up. The last part of the climb was 3 meters of no bolts and I took a big fall trying to figure out the sequence, but didn’t lose any blood this time. The second try I figured it out sent the rest of the route and came down. Yep, defiantly not a 10b. After watching all this from the ground, my belayer, Andreas, decided against trying it. Instead he wanted to go do another multi pitch but this time a harder, more exposed one. We got to the base of it, and another girl who was there, Daniela, decided she wanted to come up for just the first pitch. Andreas lead most of the first pitch but being as exposed as it was, he decided he didn’t want to finish it and came back down. I tried leading it and it was defiantly scary. Even though it was only a 10a and probably only 50 meters, it felt a lot higher and a lot harder. One at the top, I set up for the belay and Daniela started the climb. While she climbed I was looking to the mountains over Azogues which was a few kilometers away and I could see dark clouds and flashes of lightning shortly followed by crashing thunder in the distance. Daniela spent a while, made it through the cruxes but once she felt the first drops of rain she decided against continuing and I lowered her. With all my draws on the wall and a twisty turny climb below I asked them to attach a second rope to mine so I could rap off with no problems. After a bit of struggle and a bit of rain I made it off, we all packed our gear up and we drove home for cover.
Juan greeted us with his usual smile and high fives and I quickly asked him what the grade was on the slab climb I tried. 11c he replied. Wow, really I was thinking at least 11d. Slabs are so hard. I could probably use some more practice on them. The group of Quitños (People from Quito) decided to go to Cuenca, have a beer and a burger and take in some of the festivities going on for the Independence Day. I don’t know if I’ve written this observation before, but I’ll write it again. People in South America, well at least Ecuador, are really bad with giving directions on how to drive to a place, or for example how to find a bathroom. I think that they tell you the wrong way before they would say they didn’t know. Although, I’m pretty sure I’ve done the same thing to people in Canada. Ha Ha. So maybe it’s just humans and has nothing to do with what country you’re from. So, after asking about 10 people where the certain pizza place we were looking for was and driving around in circles for an hour, we found Inca Burger. After Dinner we walked around a short while and took in the scene. It was Sunday night, usually a sleepy night in Cuenca. Tonight was an exception. There was live music on every corner from big stages to small marching bands. Vendors were set up selling candied apples and cotton candy and people selling art everywhere. The streets were packed with thousands of Ecuadorians enjoying the night. After a long climbing day and our bellies full, mine with cotton candy as well as dinner, we piled back into the car and went back to Cojitambo. A great end to a great day and a great day to end a great month. Ecuador, you’re awesome. I’m sure I’ll be seeing you a lot sooner then later.